A Gastronomical Journey through the City of Joy

The sun was on its way down. Its chrome yellow tinged rays filtering through the cables of Vidyasagar Setu lighting up the sky and river alike in its hue.

Filled with lyrical hum of Rabindra Geeti, the setting sun, brilliantly lit Second Hooghly bridge, a breezy sail on Ganges,  Princep Ghat has an air of old world romanticism, a hot bed for couples, families and aspiring & seasoned photographers alike.

Amongst the hordes of ferries calling lovebirds and families alike to take the last ride of the day below India’s longest cable stayed bridge, overlooking the white Greek & Gothic styled monument built to honor the memories of James Princep, I could see a lone boat casting its shadows on the ripples it created on the river.

 

 

Eyeing an evening catch on ever-so-generous Ganges, the lanky man in his mid -40s flexed his muscles and let the fish - net fly away and land rhythmically on the river.  Holding a newspaper cone filled with Jhal Muri, a spicy yet healthy snack made of puffed rice, I couldn’t help myself but wonder about his haul that evening. The catch that will form part of the city’s favorite food at home – Macher Jhol bhaat. But this city is much more than the various dishes of fish, people associate Bengalis with.

A Probashi-Bengali, I seldom get a chance to stay longer than a week in the city that is home to Bengalis all over the world.  In any number of days that I stay in this city of Joy, all I ever do is look for opportunities to satiate my gastronomical cravings. Well, I think the lip-smacking food this city has to offer forms part of 70% of ‘Joy’ in the City of Joy.

The city of Joy is street food heaven for foodies with many top Kolkata street foods to try. Walking down a sidewalk is like walking down a buffet line. The best part is for a few rupees you can get a mouthwatering meal. Here is my take on the best street foods the city has to offer:

·  Kathi Rolls : Almost every nook and corner of Kolkata will have a Roll shop. Succulent pieces of boneless chicken or mutton wrapped with onion and sauces unique to a joint, in a flaky Indian Paratha layered with egg is easily one of the most popular fast food kabob. My personal favorites are Hot Kathi Rolls at Park Street and Nizam Rolls in New Market.

·   Kachori Sabzi: Kolkata is a city which throws you some serious challenges to your new year resolutions of staying fit. As you put on your jogging shoes and dart out of the house targeting a healthy start of the day, you will soon be greeted and seduced with a wafting aroma of hot kachoris and aloo ki sabji emanating from the nearest sweet shop. Moreover, mind you, Kolkata has more sweet shops than it has pharmacies in any street. The taste of deep fried puffed bread, which can be eaten with potato curry (aka sabzi) or with a samosa filling is even better than the aroma it had enticed you to leave your jog and hog on to it.

Personal favorites : Mohan Bhandhar, a hole-in-the-wall eatery visited by Bollywood movie star Amitabh Bachchan; Decker’s Lane in BBD Bagh.

·     Golbari Kosha Mangsho : Smoldering velvety gravy shimmering over perfectly cooked juicy pieces of meat with soft chapattis or parathas in almost a 100-year-old eatery amidst the hustle and bustle of the Shyambazar five-point crossing in north Kolkata – nothing can possibly beat this perfect mix for a true foodie. The fabled Golbari restaurant or its competitor for ages, right across the street – Rupa,  make their mouth-watering signature dish – spicy Bengali mutton curry aka Kosha Mangsho – a hot favorite among locals and tourists alike. For chicken lovers, there is chicken Kosha on the menu.

·    Bhaander Cha : There is tea in fine bone china cup & saucer, in a glass ware or in a plastic cup and then there is tea in an earthen ware (Bhaand or Kulhad). The earthen taste of the mud cup with sizzling kadak brewed piping hot cup of milk tea on the streets beats all hands down. Specialty of Kolkata – You can sip in a Bhaander Chaa in any street of Kolkata for a paltry Rs 10/- as compared to hundreds for the same experience in Chaayos at other Metros!

·      Phuchka : Golgappas, Panipuri ... this refreshing and satiating street snack favored by India has a few names, but in Bengal it is called Phuchka. Well, Phuchka is the lifeline of Kolkata street food. Those small fluffy crispy stuffed roundels are something that a Bengali lives for. The Phuchka or dough balls are hollow inside. The top is broken and the ball is filled with a slightly sour lime or vinegar water, mashed potatoes or chickpeas, chopped onions and other fixings. They are inexpensive and usually ordered in a bowl of several.  My suggestion, eat them fast and don’t count as I am sure they will never drill a hole in the pocket once you are satiated but definitely drill a hole in the thin crispy goodness if you are slow! If I start talking on Phuchka and do not mention Vivekananda Park, it’ll be unfair.

·       Kabiraji Cutlet : Kabiraji cutlet is a dish unique to Kolkata. It is served in cafe-style restaurants called 'cabins'. The cooked fish, chicken, or mutton cutlet is covered in a fluffy, crispy web of beaten egg batter to form a kabiraji cutlet. There can be two different styles of this crispy outer covering. The first, simpler style involves dipping the cutlet in the egg batter lowering it in hot oil, followed by pouring the remaining egg batter onto the cutlet while turning it. This produces a style of kabiraji that you may see at Apanjan, Rashbehari. The second style—the one we have used in this recipe—takes a little more practice, and produces a more flamboyant-looking kabiraji cutlet. In this style, you dip your fingertips in the batter and swing your wrists over a large pan to form thin strands of the egg batter that slowly form an airy, crunchy carpet as they hit the hot oil. The cooked cutlet is then placed at one end of this carpet and turned and rolled so that the web cocoons the cutlet and forms an impressive looking 'coverage'. This style of kabiraji is served at places like Mitra Cafe, Sobhabazar.

·    Beyond Roshogolla & Shondesh : If you want to truly fluster a Bengali, ask him or her about their favourite sweet? You might eventually be awarded with a response, but not before some serious frowns take over those eyebrows. It's not an easy question to deal with. How can you pick one over another? But ask a Bengali to pick at least 10, and you'd get a happy grin. Leaving the quintessential Rasgulla, Sandesh and Mishti Doi aside, I love gorging on Lobong Lotika, Kheer Kadam, Patishapta, Channar Jilipi, Shor Bhaja, Pantua, Joynogorer Moa, Ladikeni, Sita Bhog and Langcha.

The oldest and the most prominent sweet shops in Kolkata are the Bhim Chandra Nag, established in 1826 and Girish Chandra Dey and Nakur Nandy established in 1844. Located in North Kolkata, these shops have been visited by eminent personalities throughout history. Award-winning director, late Rituporno Ghosh and legendary filmmaker late Satyajit Ray, were regulars to Nakur’s. Some of the other prominent shops include Balaram Mallik and Radharam Mallik, Nalinchandra Das, Sen Mahasay and K.C Das.

Some relatively newer establishments like Kamdhenu, Mithai, and Hindustan Sweets have also captured the attention of the foodies of Bengal with their unique creations.

Kolkata Biryani : Last but definitely not the least, the quintessential king of all – Biryani – Kolkata Style. Kolkata is known to be someplace, where Biryani is treated (almost) as a religion. We have biryani if we’re sad if we’re happy, and even if we get married. As the popular saying goes, a Bengali doesn’t need anti depressants. A plate of warm mutton biryani with almost melting aloo does the job!

When you order a dish of Biryani in the city, you will be invariably served a dish full of flavorsome rice with a piece of meat and a large, boiled potato. Yes, that is the hallmark of the biryani that evolved here and has retained its popularity for more than 150 years.

It was a food connoisseur and not an impoverished royal who encouraged the adding of potato to the sacrosanct Awadhi biryani, explains Shahanshah Mirza, the great-great grandson of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah of Lucknow, every time he is asked the reason behind the addition of this ubiquitous root vegetable. Unlike Hyderabadi biryani, which is spicy and full of masala, Kolkata style biryani has a milder flavor and a perfect balance of Awadhi biryani and Mughlai biryani.

My favorite picks to gorge on this delectable delicacy are Arsalan at Park Street, Aminia at Rajarhat, Hanglaatherium at Prince Anwar Shah Road, Zeeshan at College street, Oudh 1590 & Kareem’s at Salt Lake to mention a few. 

Apart from the list above, Kolkata’s Jhal Muri, Churmur, Fish Fry, Paturi, Mughlai Porotha, Ghughni, Telebhaaja, Pantheras, Chow Mein, Swiss Patisseries (especially at Flurys) etc are some of the popular street foods that bring in joy to people’s life.  The foodie in you will live the best of life in Kolkata, this city never disappoints the street food lovers.

Vir Sanghvi rightfully said “Calcutta is not for everyone. You want your cities clean and green; stick to Delhi. You want your cities, rich and impersonal; go to Bombay. You want them high-tech and full of draught beer; Bangalore’s your place. But if you want a city with a soul, come to Calcutta.” The soul of this city connects with you through its rich culture, heritage, politics and most importantly the soul enriching food.

I am sure anyone who has visited Kolkata and gorged on its food will have an opinion of his. Please do write to us about the dishes you enjoyed and your recommendations in your feedback.